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Babbo, in 1998,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but now, he said with rue, they're more like IBM. So they have to work to keep that "rebel vibe."What turns chefs into real restaurateurs, is a quality he kept coming back to: generosity. "That's the most important part," he said. "Even if you're charging, you're still giving. What you do every night is repetitive and mundane, but fundamental to the job. You have to learn to find happiness and satisfaction and fulfillment in continually serving somebody else something good to eat."That's something not immediately apparent to culinary-school grads with visions of instant executive-chef jobs and TV stardom coming through their resumes. First, "the only chefs we hire are line cooks," Batali said. "Over time"--when they've shown their enthusiasm, appetite for repetitive work, and starting forming emotional bonds--"they become my partner." As for TV, well, that's what got Batali going--as I hoped it would,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], since I wanted to know if he thought,